To celebrate Asian American and Pacific Islander Heritage Month, we’ll be using each Day in Denver History segment throughout May to spotlight AAPI Denverites who have helped shape our city. This week: Tommy Wong.
Long before the existence of the fancy food hall concept or even the more pedestrian mall food court, Denver had the Yum Yum Tree. Opened by restaurateur Thomas Feng “Tommy” Wong in 1968, the globally-inspired dining hall on South Colorado Boulevard offered everything from juicy barbecue to German specialties to his own take on Chinese cuisine. The world cafeteria eventually moved to Aurora before closing for good in the 1980s — but Wong’s innovative dining experience still burns bright in the memories of many Denverites today.
Born on Zhoushan Island, China, he made his way to America and worked as a dishwasher, cook, and personal chef before opening his own establishments in and around the metro area. But beyond his groundbreaking approach to the restaurant experience, Wong was also known for his work behind the scenes. After his own success opening several culinary concepts, he supported other Chinese immigrants by providing work opportunities, finding housing, and helping to bring their families to the U.S.
Along with the very memorable Yum Yum Tree, he was also the man behind Tommy Wong’s Island tiki bar, Tommy Wong's Smorgasbord in the once-iconic Cinderella City mall, and more. He passed away in 2023 at the age of 97, leaving behind a big family, a humanitarian legacy, and enduring culinary memories for many delighted Mile High diners.
Special thanks to The Denver Post for its contributions to my research.
